Southern Designs

Information About Gemstones

Home | About The Artist | Upcoming Shows | Care and Storage | Information About Gemstones | Gallery | Contact Us

Real amber is technically not a gemstone or mineral, but instead is fossilized sap from prehistoric trees that grew as far back as almost fifty million years ago, primarily in Scandinavia and elsewhere around the Baltic Sea. They may have released the resin as a defense against fungal attack or insect infestation. Amber often contains inclusions in the form of perfectly fossilized insects, arachnids, mammalian hair and other organic substances--and thereby captures frozen moments in time from 20-90 million years ago. It is generally accepted that the amber from the Baltic region is the world's finest. Amber has also been found in Myanmar, Sicily, Romania, the Dominican Republic, Mexico, Canada and on the east coast of the United States.

Amber jewelry has been made since before the time of Christ; and at the height of the Roman Empire amber was called "Gold of the North". For centuries Amber jewelry was worn only by nobility and not affordable to the masses. Because amber was ascribed many healing properties it came to be used medicinally in many cultures. As centuries passed, more and more of the masses could afford to own treasured amber jewelry. Even today it is thought that wearing amber jewelry will instill confidence in the wearer, balance a person's mood, and lessen depression and anxiety.

Amethyst is an extremely sought-after gem which has been valued by many civilizations since antiquity. A variety of vitreous quartz, amethyst often forms dramatic prismatic crystals which are often formed into jewelry without being cut. Brazil and Uruguay are common sources of high quality amethyst. In the early Christian church, amethyst was believed to guard against intoxication, hence its derivation from the Greek amethustos, meaning "not drunk."

Most aventurine is quartz, but the orange and red-brown shades (aventurine feldspar) are called sunstone. Many consider the green aventurine to be the most desirable. Its glistening effect comes from the small inclusions of shiny minerals. It was named for aventura, a type of Italian glass found by accident about 1700.

Deep blue dumortierite, named for a French paleontologist, is called the "blue denim stone." It's often mistaken for lapis lazuli, which costs 2 to 3 times as much. In this country it's found in the Yuma, Arizona and San Diego, California areas. But the best source is Brazil.

Blue labradorite is also known as Larvikite in the gemstone market. Larvikite is very popular for use as a gemstone and some ornamental items. Larvikite beads are in a natural color of light to dark bluish grey with vivid silver-blue flashes. However though larvikite resembles labradorite, larvikite has more sparkle.

A variety of chalcedony and a micro-crystalline quartz; Carnelian is an A-grade agate. It appears in a vibrant range of fire-orange reds to brown-reds and has a dull, waxy luster (as opposed to the vitreous quality of crystal quartzes such as amethyst). The reddish tints in the translucent stone are due to one of its ingredients: iron oxide.

What a lot of people call "true carnelian" is the fiery red/orange color, and in theory, carnelian is naturally that color. However, most of that fiery red/orange "true" carnelian is heat-treated in secret before it reaches the gemstone-cutting factory. This apparently has been a secret for thousands of years; each part of the world thought everyone else's carnelian was naturally red, but they were heating theirs, too. When held against the light, the color-treated carnelian shows its color in stripes, while natural carnelian shows a cloudy distribution of color. The name carnelian is said to be derived from the Latin word carnis ("flesh") due to its color.

Ancient Egyptian tombs are full of carnelian jewelry, as the Egyptians believed the gemstone had great power in the afterlife. Elsewhere in the Middle East, carnelian represents the Hebrew tribe of Reuben and the apostle Philip. In Hebrew literature, carnelian appears as a gemstone in Aaron's breastplate. Some Muslims call it "the Mecca stone." Islamic doctrine holds that engraving the name of Allah on carnelian stones boosts courage. Ancient Greeks and Romans called it sardius and used the gemstone for signet rings, cameos and intaglios, while Tibetans created amulets of silver with generous applications of carnelian.

Red carnelian has been used for centuries to stop the flow of blood, and many believe the gemstone will stop nosebleeds. It is said to help heal physical wounds and blood disorders. From antiquity, carnelian has been worn in cameos in the belief that it will ward off insanity and depression. In contemporary times, carnelian is thought by some to enhance self esteem, to combat feelings of inadequacy, and to increase physical energy. In the home, it is sometimes used as a talisman to protect against fire and misfortune. Deposits of this gemstone are found in Brazil, India, Australia, Russia, Madagascar, South Africa, Uruguay and the U.S.A.

Discovered in 1978 in the Murun mountains in Yakutia, near the Charo River, this bright purple Russian charoite is actually a silicate of potassium, calcium and sodium. This purple, fibrous material may also contain exciting patterns of black (aegerine augite), transparent crystals (microcline feldspar) and orange (rare tinaksite). Charoite has a hardness of 6, and is excellent for carvings, cabs, beads, spheres, or even tiles or inlay.





Coral is a tentacled skeletal creature with microscopic plants living inside its soft tissues. When it reproduces, the new life forms remain attached to their "parents," building reefs and atolls-a polyp living in clear, warm seawaters. At the same time the plants go on living inside them and drawing sustenance from the sunlight. Coral's greatest spiritual value is that it is like a wise teacher. It teaches us to value life and our place in it. It shows us the importance of living so that we make the world a good place for the children and grandchildren that follow. A beautiful symbol of the importance of creatures and plants living harmoniously together.

Deep red garnet is derived from a number of minerals, including pyrope and almandine. Popularized in Bohemia in the Czech Republic, garnet has been used in decoration and jewelry across Europe for many years. Its color is generally a dark burgundy, sometimes with a hint of orange, pink, or purple.

Jade is a name that for centuries was applied to ornamental gemstones people were bringing to Europe from China and Central America. It wasn't until 1863 that society realized the term "jade" was being applied to two different minerals. The two minerals are relatively hard to distinguish from each other, and so even today both are still called jade. The first mineral, nephrite, is basic magnesium iron silicate and is usually only green and creamy white. The second, jadeite, is a sodium aluminum silicate that can have the full range of colors known as jade. Varieties of serpentine have also been confused with true jade throughout history.

Jade has been treasured in China as the royal gemstone since at least 2950 B.C. According to archeological findings, the Chinese began using jade in the early Neolithic Age (starting around 10,000 B.C.). The ancient Chinese believed jade was the essence of heaven and earth, and carved jade into birds and beasts to use as items of worship. Jade was also a symbol of power, and only aristocrats could own items made from the gemstone. It was even established as a standard of morality for the Chinese. Confucius concluded that jade had 11 virtues, including benevolence, fidelity, etiquette, wisdom and sincerity. Hence, jade was not only a decoration, but also a symbol of ethics and behavior. The Chinese even consumed powdered jade as a remedy for just about every ailment known, and drank it at the time of death as a powerful embalming solution.

In Central America, the Olmecs, Mayans and Toltecs also treasured jade and used it for carvings and masks. The Aztecs instituted a tax on jade, which unfortunately led to the recycling of earlier artworks. Although prehistoric axes and blades carved from jade have been found in Europe, most Europeans were unfamiliar with jade as a gemstone for use in jewelry until the 16th century, when jade objects were imported from China and, later, Central America.

The Greek origin of the word jasper, iaspis, means "spotted stone." This form of semiprecious chalcedony, or microcrystalline quartz, is usually red, brown or green. Jasper derives its colorful patterns from other minerals present, and is often named according to its pattern. It has a dull luster but takes a fine polish, and its hardness and other physical properties are those of quartz. Jasper is often sealed with petroleum products. Its polish might wash away in water, so clean with a soft, dry cloth.

The gem was a favorite in the ancient world, and the name jasper can be traced back in Hebrew, Assyrian, Persian, Greek and Latin. In the fourth century, it was called the great "rain-bringer," and it has been thought to strengthen the stomach and cure gynecological troubles. Some also use it to drive away evil spirits and protect against snake and spider bites. It supposedly gives you the courage to speak out and the bravery to achieve personal independence. Landscape jaspers are amongst the most popular varieties. Jasper is mined in North Africa, Sicily, France, India, Venezuela, Germany, the U.S.A. and elsewhere.

Kyanite takes its name from the Greek word kyanos which means 'deep blue'. Formerly called disthene, kyanite is found in shades of blues and greens. This shiny, translucent gemstone is known for its color zones and variation in hardness. The associated zodiac signs are Aries, Taurus and Libra. Kyanite has remarkable effect on dreams, memory, removing mental misconceptions. It promotes mental clarity and spiritual balance.

Labradorite is a glowing silicate mineral which shows lovely blue and golden green iridescence. This iridescence is the result of thin layers in the stone, a phenomenon which happens during the cooling process. Jewelry quality labradorite comes from India, Finland, Madagascar and Russia. Also called spectrolite, it is named for Labrador, the Canadian peninsula where it was first found in 1770.

Since the earliest of times, lapis lazuli has been associated with strength and courage. The Sumerians believed that the spirit of their gods lived within the stone. That theme was adopted by the ancient Egyptians, who drew a connection between the speckling of the stone and the glittering stars in the night sky. One of the most famous uses of the stone is in the mask of King Tutankhamen, where it is inlaid with turquoise and carnelian in bright gold. It was used by European artists during the Middle Ages, ground as pigment for producing the color aquamarine

From antiquity, lapis lazuli has been worn in the belief that it will ward off evil. In ancient Egypt, it was powdered and worn about the eyes to improve eyesight. Today, it is considered by some to be an aid to balancing the brow chakra (which influences vision and hearing). Imbalances of the brow (or blue) chakra are said to cause headaches, anxiety and disorders of the skin

Lapis lazuli is an intense royal blue stone with either whitish or yellowish matrix or feathering. Until the Middle Ages, it was referred to by the name sapphire (from the Greek for the color blue). The beautiful mixture of textures of white calcite (cloudy, patchy) and pyrite (brassy feathering) gives lapis lazuli its characteristic look. The stone has other ingredients: lazurite, sodalite and hauyne.

Lapis lazuli is found with limestone or as separate boulders. It was well-known to the ancient world because it was first found in Afghanistan. Stones from that region are still considered to be of the best quality. Argentina also produces a premium deep blue variety. Lapis lazuli is found in the USA and Canada and less intense blue examples are found in Chile and in the former USSR.

Moss agate is neither moss nor agate, but it looks like both. This beautiful clear stone with its mottled, moss-like inclusions is not regarded scientifically as agate. Though it has the same chemical composition and the intriguing patterns of agate, moss agate is found in fissures or as pebbles rather than in a layered form. Add moss agate to jewelry whenever you want a quiet, interesting pattern reminiscent of the green moss that spreads in a thick, green carpet on the Pacific Northwest forest floors.

Exquisite, iridescent mother-of-pearl epitomizes everything we love about being feminine. Its beauty is gentle and delicate. It calls up feelings of tenderness. That's understandable because mother-of-pearl is truly a mother. Its name refers to the inner layer of a mollusk shell where a pearl literally grows from the mother-of-pearl secretions. Like all "feminine" women, mother-of-pearl has a beauty uniquely its own.

Obsidian is a powerful stone that reminds us that birth and death are simultaneously and constantly present, one within the other. It has always been associated with guardian spirits that watch over us. Earlier peoples drew on that protective power in weapons they made from obsidian. Today people who wear it often speak of a sense of protection. Mahogany obsidian, in particular, is said to increase sexuality and sensuality-- the sense of touch, especially. It's as if the memory of the volcano's eruption, connected with its birth, is at the core of this gemstone's tremendous power

The name "onyx" comes from the Greek for "fingernail," referring to the translucence of the white-colored layer of the multi-layered stone. According to myth, Cupid trimmed the nails of the sleeping Venus. The Fates turned those clippings into stone to prevent even a part of Venus from dying.

The Romans were expert at glyptography (the carving of layered stones to reveal different colors) and crafted beautiful seals from onyx (white layer over black base) and sardonyx (white layer over reddish-brown base). The patterns were cut in negative relief. Engravings with a negative picture are called intaglios and those with raised image are cameos. In the Middle East, onyx was associated with sorcerers.

Black has been associated with regeneration and new beginnings. Black onyx is thought by some to have protective qualities, making it advantageous to carry when one is traveling. It is said to be useful in fighting basic fears and in helping to create the opportunity to move beyond bad relationships--and to heal old emotional wounds. The Romans associated it with courage and it is thought to be useful when one is defending him/herself against unfair criticism.

Onyx is a form of chalcedony, which is a microcrystalline quartz. It is formed in the gas cavities of lava. Its multi-layering is similar to that of agates. When the stone has a black base and a white upper layer, it's called onyx. (Black onyx is uniformly black chalcedony.) When the base is brown, it is called Sard-onyx. And carnelian-onyx has a red base.

Much of what is referred to as "black onyx" is gray chalcedony that has been chemically treated to turn it into a rich black. The gray stone can be saturated with a solution of cobalt chlorate and chlorammonium, or it can be immersed for a prolonged period in a sugar solution and then heated in sulphuric acid to carbonize the sugar

Brazil supplies the best multi-colored raw material, but onyx is found worldwide. Gray chalcedony is found in India and China

Pearls have been used for personal ornament for thousands of years. They were probably one of the earliest gems found by prehistoric man, being naturally-perfect objects which required no additional craftsmanship. (The faceting of gemstones did not exist until the 1400s.) They were probably first found along the coastline of India. The pearl's unique qualities of luster and iridescence were noted by Homer in the Odyssey: "Earrings bright with triple drops that cast a trembling light." They are mentioned in ancient Hindu epics, in the Nh'ya Chinese dictionary from 1,000 B.C., in Marco Polo's accounts about the king of China, and in Pliny's 1st century, A.D. Historia naturalis. Pliny wrote: "The richest merchandise of all, and the most soveraigne commoditie throughout the whole world, are these pearles." During the 12th and 13th centuries, the Crusaders spread their use and popularity throughout Europe while the Aztecs of central Mexico studded the interiors of their palaces with pearls and emeralds

Pearls come fine-finished directly from nature. Because of their natural beauty, they are associated with the matrix of life and some say that the pearl helps balance one's bodily rhythms and hormonal levels with lunar cycles. They are said to harmonize one's life with the rhythms of the natural world. Having what appears to be an inward glow, some claim that pearls can be used to help tap inner wisdom and to nurture the growth of love

Pearls are formed within certain shellfish: from the saltwater oysters of the Pteriidae family and the freshwater mussels from the family Unionidae. These animals are not related to the edible oysters of America and Europe (Ostrea). In fact, the flesh of pearl oysters is almost unfit for food.

A pearl is produced as the mollusk secretes layers of mother-of-pearl (calcium carbonate in the form of aragonite) and conchiolin (a horn-like substance) around an irritant. The irritant could be natural grit, or even small rounded beads of mother-of-pearl placed in cultured pearls. The layers (also called nacre) gradually build up over 3 to 7 years to form a spherical, oblong or irregularly-shaped pearl. Light reflecting from these overlapping layers near the surface of the pearl flash a subtle spectrum of color, called the "orient of pearl." Depending on the type of mollusk, pearls can be white, pinkish, brown or even black.

Historically, the ancient fisheries producing natural pearls have been the Persian Gulf, the Gulf of Manaar between the southern tip of India and Sri Lanka, and the Red Sea. Natural and cultured pearls, both salt water and freshwater, are found in the waters of Japan and China. Cultured saltwater pearls also come from Australia and the South Seas islands. Freshwater pearls are found in the Mississippi River in the United States, as well as in the rivers of Austria, France, Scotland and Ireland

Spring green peridot is the gem variety of ovaline, a silicate mineral thought to be common in the upper mantle of Earth's crust. Peridot-grade ovaline is most abundant in Pakistan and other dry areas. Used as early as 1580 BC in Egypt, peridot is held as a symbol of the Sun.

Used since ancient times for a variety of purposes, beautiful quartz is a versatile crystalline gem coming in a multitude of colors.

This incredibly abundant gemstone accounts for a whopping 12% of the Earth's crust. Some say the origin of the word quartz is the Saxon word querkluftertz, meaning "a cross vein ore," which later was condensed to querertz. However, it also might have been named after the Slavic word kwardy, or "hard," or possibly the Greek word for ice, as the Greeks believed quartz crystal was fossilized ice (scientists believed this as late as the 16th century). Quartz's high thermoconductivity, which makes it feel cool to the touch, may have added to this belief. The two varieties of quartz are macrocrystalline (crystals recognizable with the naked eye) and microcrystalline or cryptocrystalline (crystals too small to see without high magnification). The first category includes citrine, amethyst, aventurine, hawks-eye, and tigereye. The second, cryptocrystalline, is more commonly known as chalcedony. While commonly imitated by glass, true quartz can be distinguished from glass or lead crystal by its double refraction and the minute air bubbles glass often contains. Quartz is also harder than glass.

The use of quartz dates back thousands of years. Roman ladies carried quartz crystal balls to cool their hands in warm weather, and Roman soldiers used it to capture sunlight for cauterizing wounds. Quartz passed for diamonds for many centuries, and some of the superstitions surrounding diamonds actually had their beginnings in quartz. Since the Middle Ages, quartz crystal balls have been used to predict the future. The practice of burying crystal with the dead has been popular with many cultures over time and still is with some Native Americans. These cultures believe the spirit of the dead lives on in the crystal. Quartz is said to be the universal healing stone, able to clarify what needs to be healed or balanced and assist in the transformation. The crystals are reputed to promote hope, happiness and optimism while awakening us to the beauty of nature. Found around the world, important quartz deposits are in Brazil, Madagascar, Namibia, Ontario (Canada) and the U.S.A. The French and Swiss Alps are also known for their magnificent large crystals.

Rhodonite does for us what paying attention to nature always does for us. It softens our needs. It helps us put petty things behind us. It reminds us that leisure is important and that there's a bigger picture we often lose sight of. We pay attention to small things like the petals of tiny white daisies, the gossamer wings of a dragonfly, or a leaf pressed so long into a stone it has become part of it. 

Rose quartz came to be known as the stone of love and reconciliation from the Greek myth about Aphrodite and Adonis. Their blood was co-mingled when Aphrodite was cut by a thorn bush while saving Adonis from an attack by Ares (disguised as a wild boar). Their blood stained white quartz to make it a rose-pink color. Later, it became customary for the Romans to use the stone as a gift of love

Rose quartz is associated with love, the heart and beauty, and is thought to be a healing aid for the heart chakra. Imbalances of this chakra have been said to cause colds, allergies and psychosomatic illnesses. When in balance, the heart chakra is thought to make one open to love and compassion. Some believe that rose quartz has calming effects and helps people develop strong friendships

Quartz includes a large group of minerals based on silicon dioxide. Rose quartz is a macrocrystalline form, as are amethyst, aventurine and citrine. It is a milky pink color, often crackled. It is found mainly in large clumps. Only rarely is it found in single crystal form. It is believed that the pink color is due to a small amount of titanium

Rose quartz is found in pegmatite, a course-grained igneous rock (usually granite). Transparent rose quartz is rare, but is found where the best material comes from: Madagascar. The stone is found in quantity in Brazil, but also is known from Colorado, Scotland and in the former USSR

There's a boldness about sodalite that carries over into our own lives. Sodalite is the gemstone guardian for heroes and heroines. When our backs are against the wall, when we need the courage to speak and act out of our convictions, that's when sodalite has "her" greatest power. Wear "her" next time you have to confront someone with lying or cheating. Or when you've done it yourself and it's time to stand up and admit it. 
 
All you have to do to know the spiritual value of tigereye is think of its name. Tigereye promotes clear-eyed vision. It helps us see ourselves and the world around us more perceptively. Like the great cat it's named for, this gemstone knows the importance of being attentive. When we keep our eyes wide open, we are more apt to act appropriately and at the appropriate moment. It's an approach to life that can help us live longer and embrace life as an exciting learning experience. When things get tense around you, look at that tigereye ring or pendant you're wearing. It's there to remind you: stop, look and listen before you do any leaping.

Derived from topaz, the Sanskrit word for "fire," topaz is one of the most brilliant cut gemstones in existence. Topaz comes in a variety of colors from yellow to blue, and deeper blues and pinks are often created by heat-treating stones. Brazil is the world's top exporter of topaz.

Beautiful turquoise is a phosphate mineral popular all over the world. Mined since 5000 BC, it is one of the first gemstones known to be used by humans. Color variation from sky-blue to light greens is affected by differing amounts of copper and iron, more copper giving a bluer color and more iron a greener one. Beautiful light blue turquoise is mined in Northern Iran and other varieties occur in Mexico, the United States and elsewhere.

Turquoise has long been associated with gods and goddesses in cultures spanning the globe--in ancient Egypt, Persia, China and the Americas. To the Egyptians, the stone was seen as a symbol of rebirth. The Sun God Ra's hair was said to be made from the stone. The Aztecs offered a death skull inlaid with turquoise to their serpent god of the sun, Quetztalcoatl. Many North American Indian tribes viewed the stone as a male stone of power and the Apaches believed that it could be found in the damp ground at the end of the rainbow

Turquoise is said to attract prosperity and success, to have the power to influence creative powers, and to enhance the ability to communicate. The stone has long been prized as a powerful talisman with healing properties. It is said that turquoise can help balance the throat chakra (the blue chakra), increasing resistance to viruses and helping to relieve sore throats, lung infections and the affects of allergies

It is said that the finest sky blue turquoise comes from Iran, where it has been used for decoration for 6,000 years and mined for over 3,000 years. It is also found in Turkestan, the former USSR, Tibet, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Mexico and in the southwestern United States.

Chalk turquoise is a form of natural turquoise that has a white chalk-like consistency. It has the same chemical composition as turquoise, only without the copper (it's the copper that causes the turquoise color). The chalk is then dyed and stabilized to produce a material that's hard enough to use in jewelry with a pleasing turquoise color




Southern Designs  2005
All images and designs on this website are the property of Southern Designs. No copies or duplicates allowed.